Fez Medina is an ancient historical city in Morocco, well known for its many shrines to Islamic Sufi saints, the Karaouiyine Mosque, and the 9th century university, which was founded three centuries before Oxford, and became a magnet for philosophers, mathematicians and astronomers. This illustrious past plays host to the Fez World Sacred Music Festival.

In Morocco, as a guest for a wedding three years ago, I came across an advertisement for the festival as I sat reading in the honeysuckle perfumed courtyard garden, under a canopy of orange trees heavy with fruit – the Riad Lalla Fatima. Fatima, or `shinning one`, is a popular Moroccan name.

Fatima was the youngest daughter of the Prophet Mohammed. Fatima bint Mohammed el-Fihiri, a religious woman from Kairouan, donated her worldly riches for the construction of the Karaouiyine Mosque. The `Riad` of my hostess Fatima, (the prefix, Lalla, is a show of respect) is so-called because it’s a large family house with an interior garden. Quite a few neighbouring Riads had been converted into fashionable hotels and many had been snapped up by travellers looking for a second home.

Needing to refresh my spirit away from the heat and bustle of Fez, the garden was my sanctuary, where I could sip freshly pressed orange juice brought to me by Latifa, an orphan whom I guessed to be about eleven or twelve. She didn’t go to school but worked hard all day in the house. In a country of poverty she was considered fortunate to have a home.

The Fez World Sacred Music Festival was founded in 1994 by the Moroccan Sufi scholar and anthropologist, Faouzi Skali, for the harmonization of mutual recognition of the diversity of cultures and spiritual ways but above all as a beacon of peace from the Islamic world. “From its inception, the aim of the Festival has been a journey in search of meaning.

For better, for worse, relations amongst cultures are now at the heart of key world issues,” he said in his opening address. King Mohammed VI in his introductory programme message quoted the Koran. “Oh mankind! We have created you men and women and have made you people and nations so that you may know one another.”

People from many countries gather in Fez, for one week’s peace-building through music and debate. World-class performers gather together at three outstanding historical venues. For five consecutive mornings, academics, writers, artists and theologians from around the world, converse and debate at a symposium via translators. Since I started attending three years ago I have never been disappointed. The concerts cover sacred music from Islamic, Christian, Jewish, Buddhist, Hindu and Shamanic faiths, such as Native American.

The Batha Museum, a splendid former palace, erected by Sultan Moulay Hassan in 1873, houses the debates and afternoon concerts. At the opening session of the symposium in 2005 entitled, “Giving Soul to Globalisation”, a message from the Prince of Wales, who is a Patron of the Festival, was relayed from his Islamic garden at Highgrove in the UK. The Prince called for respect and co-operation between Muslim and Christians and spoke of his “great debt and gratitude to the artists and organisers.

Despite current tensions, the fundamental aspects of our cultures are driving us closer, rather than pushing us apart”, he said. The setting for performers in the museum garden is on a platform beneath an ancient oak tree, the branches forming a natural canopy. In the break I like to stroll in the lush, continually irrigated garden, under the lime trees for shade, pass the rose bushes and bamboo, to sip mint tea and have a chance to exchange views in peaceful tranquillity.

Unforgettable memories brought to mind the mystical songs and poems, sung by Hussein al Adam and his musicians. Professor of the Iraqi magam institution and member of the higher consultative council of music and song in Iraq, Hussein`s performance held the audience spellbound and greatly moved them. And the Tallis Scholars from the UK, a vocal ensemble of ten unaccompanied singers, named in honour of the great English composer of the Renaissance, who brought a cool dignity to the Garden of the Batha.

As they made their entrance, the afternoon prayer call from the several Mosques of Fez rang out, which brought an expectant hush… as we waited for them to sing a glorious rendering of the `Spenders of the Tudor Royal Chapel`.

Making my way in a local taxi, one of the numerous battered Fiats in Fez, to Bab Al Makina, a vast awe inspiring venue with a monumental entrance gate, built in 1886 under the rule of Moulay Hasson, I passed donkeys and riders carrying goods, women wearing Jellabas (long loose Kaftans with hoods), mothers carrying their babies in a sling on their backs and in contrast, some young girls flaunting mini skirts and satellite dishes on houses along the way.

The concerts are held every evening at 8.30. Highlights have been the legendary Ravi Shankar, India`s most loved musical ambassador for half a century. Accompanied by his daughter Aoushka, he is still as amazing as ever at the grand old age of 87. Favourites of the festival are the Whirling Dervishes from Turkey. Representing one of the most enticing of the mystical Sufi brotherhood, their spectacular ritualistically ecstatic dancing and spinning brought the excited audience to rhythmical clapping response.

Another well-loved performer, Francoise Atlan, accompanied by the orchestra of Fez and the Adwar Ensemble is a singer with a rich and lyrically gorgeous voice, whose roots are Jewish and Berber. Her songs explore the blurred lines between Morocco`s various religious and ethnic communities, a tribute to a vanished era rather than a living tradition. “The Moroccan Jewish community is very fragile,” Francoise said in an interview, “I wanted to make something of a testament to it.” Once a French Protectorate from 1912 to 1956, churches and synagogues stand side by side with mosques.

Volubilis, the third venue, is situated approximately 40 kilometres from Fez at the foothills of the Zerhoun mountains. An important outpost of the Roman Empire, the remains include some wonderfully preserved mosaics. Driving in one of the old Mercedes taxis which are a big feature of Morocco’s public transport, we passed the breathtaking sight of the white painted town of Moulay Idriss, clinging above us on an outcrop of rock.

Named after Morocco’s most revered saint, great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed, it is the country’s most important pilgrimage sight for the Tomb of Idriss I. "Fez is one of the poorest cities in Morocco”, Adil Douri, the Minister of Tourism told me. “The Fez Festival presents a real opportunity for us; it creates a renewal of interest in Morocco. We want to attract more visitors to our important historical sights.”

WWW.fesfestival.com 6-14 June 2008

Highlights:
Jessye Norman – 6 June
Joan Baez – 8 June

Also – Dibujos Flamenco, sacred dance form Bali, singing ensembles form Mali, India and Norway and Moroccan music.

Visitors can also take in free concerts in the vast Bab Boujloud square, attend film screenings and art exhibitions. There are also activities for children. At the late night Sufi gatherings in the Dar Tazi gardens all are welcome to sit on cushions, to listen to the rhythmic chanting music and poetry of the local Sufi brotherhoods. The Festival has something new to offer each year.